Just a few readers have requested over time a few suede overshirt on PS – significantly following the collection of articles we did this time final yr, on jacket substitutes like overshirts, chores and tebas.
So when we visited the suede workshop Rifugio in Naples final yr (above), I started the method of speaking to them about making an overshirt collectively. I had recognized Rifugio by way of the designer manufacturers they made for, however that was my first publicity to their very own work, and it was spectacular.
From the beginning, we had two key necessities. One, we needed to make use of the best suede obtainable. We knew this might make the overshirt costly, but it surely was the standard Rifugio made for these designers, and I needed to supply the identical factor to readers.
And two, I needed the identical design and sizing as the linen overshirt with Luca Avitabile. This was as a result of readers like that design a lot – with its clear look however hidden pockets – but additionally as a result of it meant sizing could be straightforward. A whole lot of readers already personal a linen overshirt, so they’d know precisely how the suede would match and performance.
Fortuitously Luca and Alfonso Rifugio knew one another, so the collaboration was easy. Patterns had been shared and a prototype created.
I’ve been sporting that prototype and the manufacturing pattern that adopted so much up to now couple of months. One factor I’ve learnt is that the shirt is fairly versatile, from cool climate to scorching.
You possibly can put on it within the method above, with a cashmere crewneck beneath, denims and boots, and it really works as a practical spring outer layer. Or, you may put on it with only a T-shirt, linen trousers and loafers, and it’s good for summer time.
Not the peak of summer time in fact – not 30+ levels – however it is going to most likely be at the least two months earlier than we get to these temperatures within the UK, maybe much more. There’s quite a lot of this ‘transitional’ climate to return, after which within the autumn as properly.
I used to be additionally actually happy with the color. I needed one thing that may very well be versatile, as we’d initially offer it in only one. The primary prototype was a pale sand, and that wasn’t proper. For the second pattern, I selected a light-weight brown, and that turned out extra tobacco-like than I anticipated.
However as I began to put on this color – pictured – the extra I appreciated it. It’s extra muted than the tobacco you usually see in menswear (and than the Linen Overshirts) and darker too.
illustration is that whereas the Suede Overshirt works properly with the denim, gray and olive proven within the outfits on this article, it’s additionally very cool with black. I wore it final weekend with a white T-shirt, black denims and black loafers, and it was nice. A extra orange-y color would have regarded stark, and a little bit low-cost.
Apart from that outfit – which I can shoot later in the summertime or maybe embrace in some socials – I needed to point out at present that the overshirt was good with denim and cotton, with denims and tailor-made trousers, and with neutrals and color.
So the outfit above is inexperienced high-twist trousers, a blue/white shirt, brown suede loafers and a conker-coloured tote. You possibly can see how good the tobacco is with these autumnal tones.
However the different warm-weather outfit is all neutrals – white and beige, beneath. Once more a stronger tobacco color would look stark and even a little bit low-cost in this sort of outfit.
The overshirt has all the great particulars of the Linen Overshirt:
- Deep, flapped chest pockets
- Hand pockets which might be hidden discreetly beneath
- Inner patch pocket on the hip (above)
- Variegated horn buttons
- Shirt cuffs, enabling them to be rolled again in hotter climate (beneath)
- A collar that appears good up or down, and folds elegantly ahead on the ends when up
The one adjustments to the linen overshirt are that the field pleat has been eliminated (because it didn’t work that properly in suede) and the hips have been enlarged barely (as they stick extra there than the linen).
The buttonholes, collar and so forth will not be sewn by hand, however the work all through is okay and exact – the extent of labor you’d count on for this high quality of fabric. I significantly like the best way the highest of the pockets and the seam above them are completed (high picture).
The Suede Overshirt is obtainable on the PS store now. The value is £1550 plus VAT, which is a step above most merchandise we provide, however nice worth in the identical method – the best suede merely prices this a lot, as you may see from comparable merchandise at Purple Label, Attolini or others.
We haven’t made that many, because it’s a little bit of an experiment, so if you’re positive you need one I’d go for it now moderately than ready for one more restock to avoid wasting on transport. I do need it to be one thing we proceed to promote although – so so long as this batch goes properly, we are going to provide it once more.
The scale chart is included on the product web page, although as I stated it’s the identical because the Linen Overshirt, excluding that little enhance within the hips.
Any questions, as ever, please ask within the feedback.
Restocked: Undershirt and shorts
Within the spirit of getting fewer store emails, we’re additionally utilizing this chance to let readers know that two merchandise have simply been restocked within the PS Store: the PS undershirt and shorts.
Sadly, the model we initially developed this product with, Hamilton & Hare, is now not in enterprise. However we’ve managed to speak to the unique manufacturing facility and at the moment are providing precisely the identical product ourselves. It is the identical light-weight, naturally stretchy cotton, made in a sports-style seamless building. Full particulars on it right here.
A little bit of a perennial this one. The model has advanced over time, however has all the time been standard. Made by Rota in Italy, it was designed to be a mean, on a regular basis brief, simply with some little sartorial touches like pleats and turn-ups. This yr solely the navy and the khaki have been restocked, because the olive fabric was not obtainable. Double pleats had been additionally standard final yr, so we have caught with these.
Different updates:
Linen Harrington – Restocked in navy, and with new Artwork du Lin brown color (beneath)
Dartmoor and Most interesting Crewneck – Restocked in cream and gray, and navy and darkish gray, respectively
Oxford shirts and fabric – Restocked in white, blue, blue stripe, inexperienced stripe and pink stripe
T-shirts – Later this month
Chambray and denim shirts – Later this month
