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Southeastern Greenland: A Land of Contrasts


Andrea Norgren, Senior Supervisor of Communications, on the WWF International Arctic Programme, traveled to Greenland, with Pure Habitat Adventures firstly of August 2024.  

Photo of Andrea Norgren, WWF staff member in Greenland

© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab

My journey in August to southeastern Greenland was an eye-opening expertise, stuffed with stark contrasts that showcased the wonder and fragility of this distant area.  

Southeastern Greenland, together with the Sermilik Fjord the place we have been for a lot of days, is a dramatic testomony to the Earth’s previous. The mountains that rise sharply from the ocean are primarily composed of Precambrian gneiss and granite, a few of the oldest rocks on the planet, courting again over three billion years. It was humbling to face amongst these historic formations, formed by tectonic forces and carved by glaciers over the past Ice Age. 

Layers of rocks in Greenland

© Malene Lynge / WWF-Denmark

The banded gneiss and solidified granite reveal a historical past formed by immense stress and time. Each are rocks that had as soon as been molten, now stable and unmoving, set in opposition to the ever-changing ice and water that surrounded them. 

Discovering serenity amidst the wilderness 

Every morning at Nat Hab’s Base Camp Greenland, an expedition lodge with tent cabins situated on the east facet of Sermilik Fjord, our small group would collect on the rocks, following the lead of a fellow traveler and new good friend who guided us by way of yoga poses. The setting was surreal—and I used to be calm and targeted, inhaling one of many planet’s most distant and untouched landscapes.  

Over the 5 days whereas we have been on the Base Camp, we hiked within the mountains surrounding the Sermilik Fjord many occasions. We have been rewarded with sweeping views of the fjord, the place jagged mountains and huge expanses of ice stretch so far as the attention may see. We additionally kayaked amongst towering icebergs that felt nearly alive, groaning and shifting as they interacted with the water and wind.  

Man kayaking near icebergs in Greenland

© Malene Lynge / WWF-Denmark

Amidst all of it, there was at all times laughter—a way of connection and heat between this unimaginable group of fellow vacationers witnessing collectively the magic of this distant space of the Arctic. 

Taking within the pure magnificence 

At first look, this a part of southeastern Greenland seems nearly devoid of life. The huge expanses of ice and rock appear inhospitable, and wildlife sightings have been uncommon. However as I spent extra time on this stark atmosphere, I started to note the refined indicators of a wealthy biodiversity. The bottom beneath my toes was usually cushioned by lichen and moss, resilient organisms that thrive within the harshest situations. Wildflowers, small however vibrant, dotted the panorama, including sudden splashes of coloration. 

Bird flying in Greenland

© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab

There have been additionally extra birds than I initially realized. Gulls, ravens, and snow buntings introduced sound and motion to the in any other case quiet backdrop. However the true stars of the present, for me, have been the whales. On our boat journey from Tasiilaq to our camp close to Sermilik Fjord, we have been handled to the sight of many humpbacks. Watching these majestic creatures floor and feed, usually close to the towering icebergs, was a reminder of the interconnectedness of all life on this fragile ecosystem. 

Some of the stunning elements of southeastern Greenland was the sound. Regardless of its remoteness, the area is much from silent. The ice, which dominates the panorama, has a life—and a voice—of its personal. Though we didn’t see any dramatic ice-calving occasions, the icebergs have been consistently cracking, shifting, and even flipping over, creating sounds that echoed throughout the fjord.  

Dealing with an unsure future  

Our go to to native cities, equivalent to Tasiilaq and the tiny village of Tinit gave us a glimpse into the lives of the communities which have lived and survived on this harsh atmosphere for generations. Their lifestyle is carefully tied to the pure world, however that’s altering. Conventional searching and fishing practices are being disrupted because the individuals who name Greenland residence should adapt to an more and more unpredictable local weather.  

Town in Greenland with mountains in background

© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab

Regardless of the hardships, there was a heat and friendliness among the many folks we met—a resilience that has developed by way of generations of residing in one of the crucial difficult environments on Earth. But, there was additionally a palpable sense of uncertainty in regards to the future. 

The Arctic is warming 4 occasions sooner than the worldwide common and the consequences are seen in all places. Summer season sea ice is shrinking quickly and the icebergs we noticed are calving at an unprecedented fee. The Greenland ice sheet is shedding mass at an alarming tempo, which is contributing to international sea degree rise.  

My journey to southeastern Greenland was one in all profound contrasts.  The fantastic thing about this distant and rugged land is simple, however so is its fragility. The alternatives we make now will decide the way forward for locations like southeastern Greenland—and the folks and wildlife who depend upon it. And whereas the contrasts I skilled on this journey will stick with me without end, so will the pressing want to guard the Arctic from the devastating results of local weather change.  

Group of travelers with Nat Hab base camp Greenland sign

© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab

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