Des Moines Is Extra Than Corn Fields and the State Honest — Right here’s What We Love About This Midwest Capital

Bettendorf, Iowa, the 28,000-resident suburban city I grew up in, was far too small. New York Metropolis, the 8.2-million metropolitan space the place I began my profession and resided for 2 years after school, was far too huge.

However Des Moines, Iowa, the Midwestern capital metropolis I made a decision to maneuver to in 2012? Excellent. As a contract life-style author, I might plant my pin wherever all over the world; nonetheless, I selected to remain and have proudly referred to as Des Moines house for almost 12 years.

“Iowans don’t prefer to brag, however Des Moines is cooler than guests assume it is going to be—if they give thought to Des Moines present in any respect,” says Michael Morain, editor of dsm Journal, who has lived in Des Moines for 20 years. Because of the first-in-the-nation political caucuses that Iowa hosted for many years, “often, the one individuals who thought of Des Moines have been additionally eager about operating for president. However within the early 2000s, Iowa’s capital metropolis lastly shed its nearly apologetic humility and began to carry its head somewhat larger, speaking up the revitalized downtown, eating places, museums, riverwalk, and trails.”

With a inhabitants of 214,000, in keeping with 2020 U.S. Census information, it’s “a mid-sized metropolis with small city roots and massive metropolis ambitions,” provides Morgan Chiccelly, an insurance coverage product growth advisor and the founding father of the small enterprise metropolis information Des Moines Lady. (She was born right here and returned after residing in New York Metropolis, Miami, and Washington, D.C.)

By that, she means you possibly can relish a small city’s effectivity, pleasure, “Iowa Good” power, and appeal. On the identical time, you’ll really feel the thrill of a group with a rising small enterprise scene and artistic facilities you’d anticipate finding in a a lot bigger metro space. Exhibit A: The headquarters of Dotdash Meredith, the publishing firm behind Journey + Leisure. Exhibit B: An array of eating places dishing up world-class delicacies that guests from the Massive Apple, Los Angeles, and Chicago have instructed me rival something of their neighborhoods. (It seems magic occurs when gifted cooks who’ve labored at Michelin-starred eating places across the globe return house, can play with top-notch native produce and proteins, and might get pleasure from a beautiful high quality of life all of the whereas because of the comparatively reasonably priced value of residing and quick commute.)

“While you go to Des Moines, there’s an actual sense of shock, and it feels such as you’ve found one thing all your individual,” explains 10-year resident Ben Handfelt, inventive director at Catch Des Moines. “The epic occasions, the charming neighborhoods, the genuine points of interest, and sure, the folks make for a memorable expertise that you simply’ll wish to revisit time and time once more.”

“Discipline of Goals” followers know that for those who construct it, they are going to come. Momentum is constructing in Iowa, however for those who come now, you possibly can go to this Central Iowa gem whereas it’s nonetheless our little secret. Right here’s methods to profit from each second.

Finest Resorts and Resorts

Surety Lodge

Declared the “chicest place to remain in Iowa” by one publication in 2022, this 137-room Beaux-Arts lodge has historic bones and an extremely handy location. Lower than two blocks from the huge downtown farmers market, locals flock to this lodge for yoga and mimosas, trend exhibits, and Mulberry Avenue Tavern, Surety’s refined restaurant that has “decidedly Don Draper vibes,” Handfelt says. As for the rooms, the partitions are decked with artwork curated by globally-renowned, Des Moines-based gallery proprietor Liz Lidgett and the mini-bars are stocked with Central Iowa snacks like Previous Station Craft Meats Snack Sticks and Mo’Crack Pretzels. On the finish of the day, you’ll uncover that the beds are “impossibly delicate,” Handfelt says.

Lodge Fort Des Moines

Morain reveals that the historical past of this 110-room downtown lodge is as wealthy as its timeless décor. Lodge Fort Des Moines has hosted dozens of presidents and celebrities through the years and not too long ago underwent a serious makeover, restoring its two-story foyer to its authentic grandeur. That foyer hyperlinks collectively the check-in desk, the upscale restaurant Proudfoot & Chook, and the ethereal Hobnob Espresso and Wine Bar. Psst… Deliver your ID, and ask about In Confidence. It’s the Gatsby-esque speakeasy tucked accessible by way of a staircase behind a secret wall in Hobnob. (Your drink menu is delivered in a file folder like a file.)

AC Lodge

Downtown is cut up in half by the Des Moines River. On the west aspect, you’ll discover Surety and Lodge Fort Des Moines, and the 109-room AC awaits on the east. This Marriott property is located within the heart of the ultra-walkable East Village. It’s additionally a half-mile away from the glimmering Iowa State Capitol dome. (When you’ve got time, by the best way, pop in for a free tour of the majestic authorities constructing.) AC Lodge’s decor, from high to backside, feels European and glossy. Talking of the highest: Absorb a number of the finest skyline views on the town at The Republic on Grand, a large indoor-outdoor restaurant and lounge on the lodge’s rooftop.

Victoria’s Home at Rose Farm

About half-hour from the guts of downtown, you possibly can relaxation your head in a subject of flowers. Properly, nearly. This three-bed, two-bathroom Airbnb is run by Karri Rose, proprietor of the Norwalk, Iowa, boutique flower farm the place the residence is situated. The whole idyllic, peaceable property is magazine-worthy; in truth Rose Farm has graced a number of of our sister manufacturers’ covers. The on-site Airbnb is simply as beautiful. The title is a candy tribute to Karri’s late mother-in-law, and the facilities are one among a form, together with a basket to gather eggs from the coop and vases you could fill with flowers you possibly can harvest from steps away.

Finest Issues to Do

Take pleasure in a creative afternoon.

“In 2009, greater than a dozen modern sculptures landed like spaceships on two blocks on the west finish of downtown as a consequence of a $40 million present from an area enterprise capitalist and his spouse,” Morain explains. At the moment, the beloved John and Mary Pappajohn Sculpture Park options greater than 30 main works by a number of the huge names within the artwork world and lots of Instagrammable moments. (Jaume Plensa’s “The Nomade” is without doubt one of the most photographed scenes within the metropolis.) The gathering belongs to the also-worth-a-visit Des Moines Artwork Heart, a three-wing, world-class museum on town’s west aspect with a brand-new director who involves us from The Metropolitan Museum of Artwork. Don’t overlook Mainframe Studios both, recommends Sarah Booz, who was born and raised in New York Metropolis and arrived in Des Moines somewhat over two years in the past. The colour-blocked mural on the facade is hard to overlook. Inside, you’ll discover “the most important non-profit artwork studio constructing within the nation with 180 reasonably priced artwork areas and over 220 working creatives,” Booz says. “From 5 to eight p.m. the primary Friday of each month, artists open their studios to indicate off what they’re engaged on and promote authentic artwork. There’s a exceptional quantity of expertise on this city!”

Go to a farmers market.

“The downtown farmers market alongside Court docket Avenue is an ‘Official Massive Deal’ right here, drawing crowds of 30,000 to Court docket Avenue each Saturday morning from Could via October,” Morain says. (For context, you possibly can store from roughly 275 native distributors at Des Moines’ nine-block market. That’s about twice as many as you’d discover at New York Metropolis’s Union Sq. Greenmarket.) From 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. each Saturday, it’s the place to go for recent produce, eggs, cheese, espresso, baked items, breakfast burritos and sandwiches, and “so many canine to pet,” Booz says. “I as soon as noticed a goat in a tiny sombrero, which made my life.”

Take a dairy tour.

In the event you’ve seen “Maytag Blue Cheese” on a menu, you’ve noticed — and maybe tasted — an Iowa product within the wild. For the final 79 years, a number of the world’s finest blue cheeses have been crafted at a farm in Newton, Iowa, 40 minutes from Des Moines. Go to the Maytag mothership, or for those who’d prefer to salute Iowa’s dedication to dairy somewhat nearer to the capital, order a cheese and charcuterie board, fondue, or mac and cheese on the Cheese Store or Cheese Bar. “The expertise is all the time unpretentious and as comforting because the cheese pull you get from the sandwiches,” Handfelt says. (Inform C.J., Brett, and Darren that we despatched you.) Or if candy is extra your model, step as much as the counter at one among our many magical ice cream retailers, corresponding to The Exterior Scoop or Black Cat Creamery. “Black Cat churns a number of the finest in the whole county with thrilling flavors and an ideal texture,” in keeping with Booz. “In addition they have vegan and gluten-free choices!”

Embark on a biking beer crawl.

Register’s Annual Nice Bicycle Journey Throughout Iowa (RAGBRAI) is far more than a motorbike journey. It’s a motion. RAGBRAI is the world’s longest, largest, and oldest leisure bicycle touring occasion. Since 1973, cyclists have launched into this eight-day, pie-fueled, beer-spiked “rolling competition” that runs from the western border of Iowa (dip your again tire within the Missouri River) to the japanese border (dip your entrance tire within the Mississippi to cap off the roughly 470-mile trek).

In the event you’d want to dip your toe into biking tradition right here in Iowa fairly than committing to the eight-day journey, go to one among 27 BCycle stations scattered all through Des Moines and lease a motorbike. That may be your chariot as you pedal your method to a number of native craft breweries which can be scattered alongside the path, together with Both/Or, Confluence, SingleSpeed, Firetrucker, and Peace Tree.

Bop alongside to stay music.

During the last 20 years, the Better Des Moines Music Coalition has been turning up the quantity on the variety and availability of stay music in Des Moines. The native symphony, opera, and a number of other inventive small enterprise house owners have been taking part in their stunning components, too, and now residents and guests have dozens of venues to go to to soak up tunes. Swing by Noce for jazz, or dive into The Cave for a pure wine flight, small plates, and stay music or vinyl soundtrack. Come summer time, Lauridsen Amphitheater, Jasper Vineyard and Botanical Backyard host common out of doors concert events. Talking of which, for those who’re on the town in early August, see if you may get a cross to Hinterland Music Pageant hosted in Saint Charles, Iowa, a few 35-minute drive from downtown. (This yr’s line-up contains Hozier, Vampire Weekend, Noah Kahan, and lots of extra.)

Finest Eating places

Oak Park

For a yr earlier than the debut of Kathy Fehrman’s seasonal modern-American restaurant, the Oak Park administration crew examined and perfected recipes, all studied for and handed their degree one sommelier exams, labored with native farms to plan and plant an on-site backyard, and began buying bottles for what’s going to develop to be a 7,000-bottle wine cellar. It’s no marvel since opening day, Oak Park has been reserving out for months prematurely. (Right here’s an insider tip: Cease in any day they’re open —Tuesday via Saturday for dinner — and you’ll probably discover an open stool or two on the bar for those who time it proper.) The story will get even sweeter while you understand the kitchen is helmed by the husband-wife crew of Ian and Jessica Robertson, who beforehand labored at James Beard Award-winners like ABC Kitchen and Eleven Madison Park. The very best-sellers embody potato gnocchi with truffle beurre monté, the caviar and chips (which style uncannily much like a traditional Iowa potluck merchandise, “AE Occasion Dip”), and the bacon-glazed pork chop cooked within the restaurant’s personal bourbon. Dessert choices vary from a $4 hazelnut chocolate bar to a showstopping $100 banana cut up.

Clyde’s High quality Diner

Talking of the James Beard Awards, the chef-owner of this East Village “high quality diner,” Chris Hoffman, was the only real Iowan nominated for a 2024 medal. Regardless of what the title says, Clyde’s is greater than high quality. With a relaxed but refined aura, a number of the finest smash burgers and fries on the town, a frequently-rotating delicate serve menu (no matter they’re swirling, get it with a heat oatmeal-chocolate chip cookie), and upscale seasonal entrees like housemade smoked sausage with soiled rice arancini and burnt carrot purée, it’s improbable. “This can be a favourite spot to fulfill up with my girlfriends or have a contented hour drink on the bar,” Chiccelly says.

Desk 128

Previously situated within the Western suburb of Clive, Desk 128 has been transplanted. As of its reopening in Could 2024, it’s thriving downtown. Chef-owner Lynn Pritchard is legendary for his so-good-we-could-swim-in-them soups, a Brussels sprouts salad that has transformed numerous choosy eaters, and the delicate, buttery mini sea salt-chocolate cookies which can be delivered heat on the finish of each meal. Chef de delicacies Jacob Demars, common supervisor Garrett Dotsch, and bar supervisor Jake Humburg have joined the band, and alongside Pritchard, the management crew has crafted considerate lunch and dinner menus that can delight everybody from the adventurous eaters to the meat and potatoes crowd. “Desk 128 has essentially the most glorious Caesar salad,” Booz says, noting that she hasn’t stopped eager about it since she first tried it a number of weeks in the past. Wash down your salad and entrée (get the risotto carbonara) with a glass from Dotsch’s spectacular wine record or one among Humburg’s modern cocktails or non-alcoholic drinks.

Harbinger

In the event you assume Iowa is simply corn fields and fried meals on a stick, don’t cross go. Don’t acquire $200. Head to Harbinger instantly after your flight lands otherwise you drive into city. A businessperson from Los Angeles not too long ago requested the place to entertain purchasers, and he chosen Harbinger from my shortlist of strategies. His overview: “I’m very pleasantly stunned. All the pieces was on par with D.C., and possibly even L.A.!” With a deal with fermentation, preservation, and seasonality, Harbinger’s menu of thrilling vegetable-forward small plates celebrates Iowa elements whereas tipping a cap to the culinary crew’s intensive travels all through southeast Asia. “Harbinger is legendary for his or her five-course chef tastings, distinctive wine record, and, oh my, these steamed bao buns,” Handfelt says. This Ingersoll gem, owned by five-time James Beard-nominated Joe Tripp and with a kitchen run by government chef Ryan Skinner, is without doubt one of the finest eating places within the Midwest, all whereas being approachable and reasonably priced sufficient to make it your “Cheers.”

Eatery A

When Jason Simon’s Ingersoll Avenue Mediterranean-inspired bistro opened in spring 2014, many locals thought its each day 3 to six p.m. blissful hour — throughout which pizzas, draft beer, and wine are half-price — can be a short-lived grand opening fête. A whole decade later, this deal has by no means wavered; in truth, it not too long ago expanded to start at 2 p.m. The patio, bar, and restaurant are particularly bustling throughout these hours as company sip Toppling Goliath Pseudo Sue IPA and share wood-fired pies, just like the #14 with purple sauce, chorizo, pineapple, jalapeño jam, and cilantro. It’s removed from the one time to go to, although. Eatery A, which takes inspiration from Spain, Morocco, Egypt, and Italy, can be the place you’ll discover a number of the metropolis’s finest brunch fare. Attempt chef Andy Sayre’s towering benedicts, the shakshuka with sumac flatbread, or an oh-so-Iowa asparagus and candy corn quinoa bowl with roasted tomatoes, inexperienced goddess, and romesco sauce. No matter event you swing by for, there’s no higher method to tie a bow in your meal than with the salted caramel budino. (Take it to go for a midnight snack for those who’d want. It travels superbly.)

Finest Time to Go to

The very best time to go to Des Moines is Could via October, which syncs with the farmers market season. “Harsh Midwest winters can stretch for months,” Chiccelly admits, so when spring gloriously enters the chat, we relish it in every single place, from parks to restaurant patios (Aposto within the Sherman Hill neighborhood has among the best).

Come late April and early Could, Water Works Park is painted pink by crabapple tree blooms. Round Des Moines, the fragrance of lilacs scents the sidewalks. Bike trails come alive as locals and guests alike put together for RAGBRAI. June and July are prime out of doors competition and live performance season, and each August, crowds of Iowans and guests flock to the Iowa State Honest.

All of that being stated, September and October “is the time you’ll actually fall in love with Des Moines,” Handfelt says. “The humidity has scaled again, the leaves have turned radiant colours, and Iowans are feeling further radiant as a result of it’s the kickoff of faculty soccer season.” Hikes are beautiful, regionally sourced plates are singing, and orchards are overflowing with pumpkins, apples, and, better of all, apple cider donuts.

Easy methods to Get There

Des Moines Worldwide Airport (DSM) has dozens of each day continuous flights to and from Chicago, Minneapolis, Atlanta, Phoenix, Dallas, Detroit, Denver, New York Metropolis, and past. Already Iowa’s largest airport, it’s increasing as we converse. By 2026, a brand new terminal will debut. Whereas there are just a few eating places and retailers when you cross TSA (for now), safety is swift. I’ve made it from my house downtown to my gate — parking, baggage test, and all — in 45 minutes.

If the open street is asking, Des Moines can be a simple drive from different heartland hubs like Kansas Metropolis (three hours), Minneapolis/St. Paul (three hours), Omaha (two hours), Iowa Metropolis (1 hour, 45 minutes), St. Louis (5 hours, half-hour), and Chicago (5 hours, half-hour).

Neighborhoods to Go to

The Avenues of Ingersoll and Grand

Collectively often called “The Avenues,” Grand Avenue and Ingersoll Avenue are “my favourite streets in Des Moines,” Chiccelly says. “Every block has enjoyable enterprise to discover,” particularly from twenty eighth to thirty fifth Streets. Begin with a spirited or spirit-free combined drink at Bartender’s Handshake (the ancho chili-spiked carrot and ginger mix referred to as the “Karate Child” is my favourite), then snag a crispy rice wrap at Southeast Asian eatery Fortunate Lotus earlier than devouring a burger and tots from Lachele’s. Oh, and don’t neglect dessert. It’s prepared for you at Crème Bakery, Sammy Mila’s Asian-inspired bakery. Mila and co. host the ‘90s music-infused “Midnight Munchies” each Friday and Saturday from 6 p.m. to Midnight, at which you’ll be able to sip cocktails and order every thing from milk bread cinnamon rolls to ube-Oreo cake slices to scotcheroos. (For the uninitiated, these are no-bake chocolate-peanut butter cereal bars that few Iowans can resist.)

East Village

“In the event you’re on the lookout for walkability, small enterprise power, and nightlife, the historic East Village neighborhood of Des Moines is your spot,” Chiccelly says. “Positioned simply east of downtown Des Moines by the Des Moines River, the East Village has a vigorous small enterprise group.” Right here’s a spectacular pattern day solely loved within the E.V.: Seize espresso and a pastry at Daisy Chain Espresso earlier than searching for garments at MARNe, RAYGUN, and Fontenelle Provide Co.. Then pop into Purveyor for tapas, a glass of wine, and a macaron or two. Rating a memento at Eden (luxurious fragrances, skincare, candles, and extra) or Liz Lidgett’s Gallery, the place you possibly can peruse — and probably spend money on — new art work. Take pleasure in a small chunk and a beverage at HoqTail, then end with tacos and churros at entirely-gluten-free Bar Nico.

Valley Junction

Technically situated within the historic a part of West Des Moines, but adjoining to Des Moines correct, “Valley Junction appears to be like just like the quintessential small city Iowa principal road, simply revived as a hotspot for small companies,” Chiccelly says. Their Thursday night farmers market is the right excuse to go to retailers and eating places that line the streets and to attempt two signature Iowa dishes. At Cooper’s on fifth, ask for the steak de Burgo, a Des Moines-invented dish that entails a steak swimming in a garlicky, herbaceous butter or cream sauce. At Paula’s Cafe, select from a far-bigger-than-the-bun pork tenderloin or a unfastened meat sandwich you may additionally know by the title “Maid-Ceremony.”

Highland Park/Oak Park

One of the crucial quickly evolving neighborhoods in Central Iowa is Highland Park/Oak Park Neighborhood. Tacos La Familia, “an ideal little taqueria with nice micheladas, the perfect birria on the town, and a lamb soup (consomme de borrego) that can blow your thoughts,” Booz says, is definitely worth the journey alone. However stick round to discover this northside neighborhood, and also you’ll uncover top-notch coffees poured by cheery baristas at The Gradual Down Espresso Co., sustainable goodies galore at THE COLLECTIVE, and a trendy and thoughtfully curated common retailer at Des Moines Mercantile. Coming quickly: Scoops by Beth, an artisan ice cream store poised to be the last word cease to appease your candy tooth on this neighborhood.

Easy methods to Get Round

Downtown and lots of neighborhoods exterior of which can be walkable. “Exploring by foot will introduce you to an abundance of alternatives for purchasing, artwork, points of interest, hidden gems, and bars and eating places for each style,” Handfelt says.

Nonetheless, you’ll most likely need wheels for at the least just a few excursions. Relaxation assured that your valuable time received’t be eaten up by sitting in site visitors. Locals typically say, “Nothing is greater than a 20-minute drive away.”

Your finest choices for native transportation embody:

• Lease a automotive on the airport from Alamo, American, Avis, Funds, Enterprise, Hertz, or Nationwide.
• Lease a motorbike by way of BCycle bike share.
• Use a rideshare service like Uber or Lyft.

Obtain the MyDART app, then hop aboard the DART bus, which has routes round city. (A single fare is $1.75 to $2, a day cross is $4, and every week cross is $16.)